A Midwesterner in the Tsar's Court

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Saturday, December 31, 2011

День Благодарения/Thanksgiving по-русски

As families across the United States gathered their recipe books, ingredients, and best silverware for the annual Thanksgiving Day feast, our small band of Americans in St. Petersburg, Russia rushed to find the Russian equivalents of turkey, baking power, pumpkin in a can, and the other essentials necessary to compose a turkey dinner. First you had to translate the words, then you had to find out if such a thing existed in Russia (or what the Russians used as an equivalent), and finally you had to remember that everything is in the metric system over here....so math reared its ugly head once again. All of this took some time and work. There were also a few lessons learned about Russian cooking, the main one of course was: before you buy it, make it at home. This goes for everything (just about). When I told my host family I was going to make pumpkin pie, my host mom's first reaction was: Is a girl coming to help you? I responded no, I can bake. She seemed doubtful but was okay with it. Her second reaction was to tell her sister who then suggested that I buy a full pumpkin and use that to make the pie (make it before you buy it). I had no idea how to do that (and as of yet, still have no idea), so I said I'd buy what I need to use. That meant heading to Stockmann's, the foreigners culinary paradise.

This is the mother ship: the Stockmann store in
Helsinki, Finland.
 A quick description is in order. Stockmann's is like the Finnish Macy's. It sells just about everything and is also the home of a large shopping mall. In the basement of this place, one can find any and (almost) all American or non-Russian foodstuffs that you just can't get in Russia. It's of course a bit more expensive than the usual Russian goods, but when you need pumpkin in a can, you don't have much of a choice. So that's where I went, to the Finns who gave me what I needed to make the pie.

  With pumpkin cans in hand, I made two pies, one for my host family and one for the Russians at school who'd never had pumpkin pie before (you may be shocked, I was too, hence the pie for them). They turned out really well and tasty. And after that, my host mom decided that I could indeed cook by myself, so she gave me free reign in the kitchen! The next step was to make some pumpkin bars (my personal favorite of the pumpkin delicacies. But unfortunately, those didn't turn out so well...actually at all they didn't turn out. I forgot some baking soda and so the bread didn't rise and well it just didn't turn out too good. But that's ok. We had pies and that was good enough.
Everything waiting to be cooked. Except the cat, she was
just curious as to what was going on.

As the big day approached, our group threw together a list of what needed to be prepared as well as who would do what. But one spot was left untouched: Turkey team. The most important part of the Thanksgiving meal had no one to bring it to fruition. So a friend of mine and I volunteered, not really knowing what to do but trusting our college educations to help us figure it out.

First step: locate and procure a turkey, preferable one that is not still alive. My friend and a couple other members of the Turkey Team located some birds that were small and already prepared minus the cooked part.

Step Two: Thaw. I should clarify that we located and procured the turkey on the 24th of November. That would be less than 24 hours before the dinner. So the 4 days for thawing the birds just wasn't going to happen. Luckily our friend the internet had all the answers ready for us. It said that you could keep the birds in cold water which would thaw them quicker than the usual method. We prepared the bath and sat and waited.
Don't try this in America.

Step Three: Wait. The four to six hours for thawing in the bath turned into a much longer time frame; more like  8-9 hours. But once they were done, they were done.

Step Four: Dress and cook. At this point, I was alone due to the lateness of the hour. I dress the birds and prepared them for cooking. That took another good amount of time and it was an interesting experience. Russian ovens are considerably smaller than what I'm used to. The two birds literally almost did not fit together in the oven. But I made it work.


Step Five: Wait again. And also hope that nothing burns down. I was really concerned that the tightness of the situation in the oven was going to cause fire or burning of some sort. So while I did try to rest a bit while I waited, I also kept looking at the oven and checking for smoke. That would not have been the way to thank my host family for the use of the oven. I also was hoping that the turkey's wouldn't dry out....











Like this:

Step Six: Check the turkey after the appointed time as arrived. I cautiously opened the oven door and peeked in and was created with the delicious smell of turkey cooking. I took out the birds and tried a piece....Mmmmm....That was good. Not too dry and the seasoning was just right. Success.

I carved the birds, saved the wish bones, cleaned up and then went promptly to bed at 9 AM. I woke up later around 1 PM (I think, I don't really remember...) And set out to bring the turkeys to the apartment where we were going to celebrate.

I arrived turkey in hand to find our program director and a student busy preparing dishes for the feast. It was a marvelous scent that was in the air. I gave them the meat and waited around until I had to head off to teach English. At class, my stomach was focused on nothing but the feast that awaited us in an hour. But I was not to distracted from the lesson at hand. Then came the hour to feast. All gathered together in our small room, but all was well and cheer was in the air.

It was a wonderful night; friends, food, and cheer. My stomach and body eventually told me that I had to go home due to overstuffing and lack of sleep. I departed happy and feeling very accomplished.

Thanksgiving in Russia: Success.

Friday, December 23, 2011

Moscow, the heart of the Bear (Part 4, yes I lied, there is one more post to go)

Ok, blog last log about Moscow so hang on!

Here we go:

Don't let the blue skies fool you...
it was cold.
 I eventually woke up from said restful sleep (see last post) and again prepared for another adventurous (and this time quite cold) day in Moscow. Our first stop was once again the Funky Lime for breakfast. After that, I embarked with the group to one of the oldest (or perhaps the oldest...) monasteries in Moscow. It was off the beaten path a bit, so the area was quiet, set aside from the hustle and bustle around the Kremlin. A cold wind blew, penetrating my coat's protective layer of warmth. But the sight we held before our eyes distracted me from the cold. Monasteries in Russia (as they were throughout Europe) were built as fortresses, to keep out marauders and thieves and the outside world as a whole. White walls surrounded this particular place with a high tower and onion domes piercing the skyline.

Russia, the image you really shouldn't have in
your head. There is so much more :)
We entered through the gate and gathered in the courtyard. Once everyone was together, we headed to meet our guide. The tour was cold, but interesting. I was again beset by the problem of having to go to the bathroom, so unfortunately, I couldn't enjoy it to its fullest. But, we saw the graves of some tsars and their families as well as some other really old Russians. Everyone was visibly quite cold, but we endured the temperatures until we headed inside to see old icons, pictures, and artifacts from the monastery's past. We then headed to another museum within the monastery devoted to iconography and the modern-day Russian Orthodox Church. Again, had I not had to go to the bathroom, I'm sure I would've enjoyed the visit a lot more. But alas, nature called. As the tour ended, we found out that we had a bit of time before we needed to head to our next spot. A friend and I decided to walk around the look at the monastery's grounds once more.
My friend commented that at that moment, we couldn't deny that we weren't in Russia: it was cold and there were onion domes.

Our time at the monastery ended and we headed to our next spot for the day: a cemetery. Now, it may seem a bit sad to head to a cemetery (and in fact it is) but this particular cemetery is special. Why you ask? Because within its walls are entombed many of the icons of the Russian Empire, the Soviet Union, and modern-day Russia. Three famous names from those times who I found there: Anton Chekhov, Yuri Nikulin, and Boris Yeltsin. In any cemetery, I also walk around with a feeling that I've stepped into an area where time doesn't exist. so many people reside in such a place, people from the distant past to the very recent. It seems that all their times are frozen in place, creating this "bubble" from the outside world. And this place especially had that feel. Here were the names of people I've known in books, films, and on TV and here they were, resting eternally.

Yuri Nikulin, my favorite Soviet actor and comedian.

The final resting place of Boris Yeltsin.

Anton Chekhov, my favorite Russian author.































Deserted, very strange...
After the short visit to the cemetery, we headed to lunch. After that, we had free time until dinner. For this moment of freedom, I decided to explore an area called Арбатская (Arbatskaya). It's a pedestrian street lined with souvenir shops, coffee shops, artists, and musicians. It's a fun and exciting place to at least walk around in (and to buy things as well! Though a bit pricey....) I walked around with some friends and had a good time (as well as got stuck temporarily in a bathroom in Starbucks). After we parted, I decided to head off on my own to a market that I'd heard sold Soviet things. I hopped on the metro and headed to where I though it was located. Arriving, I didn't really know what I looking for. I sorta expected (and hoped) that there'd be a big sign pointing me in the right direction. There wasn't. So, I picked a direction and marched forward. I crossed a street and came to a park.

Very unsettling for some reason.
The park's name was the Park of Culture and Rest (a relic of the Soviet Days). It's a place with a few theme parks (small ones) that are popular I'm sure in the summer, but in November...not so much. So it was a quiet place, with a few people walked around, as well as amusement park rides flashing their lights. It was a bit weird....

But, I didn't find any markets, so I turned around and headed back the way I came. This time, I went in the opposite direction and found the market I was looking for. And boy was it a market full of Soviet stuff. There were hat pins, flags, uniforms (full uniforms mind you) and everything in between. It was awesome. I purchased a few things and headed back to dinner (rushing a bit due to my adventure into the park). I made it in time to eat a warm meal and discuss the day's adventures. After eating, we headed back to the hostel to grab our things and go to the train station. The train station was busy and we sat around waiting for the call to board. Everyone was tired, but had enjoyed their time in Moscow.

Arriving back in St. Petersburg.
  We headed out onto the platform and boarded the train. This time, there was a small meal awaiting us (much welcomed even after dinner). We ate and settled in for a good nights rest. Unlike the trip to Moscow, the return trip was a time to rest. All of us had classes in the morning, so we wanted to be (somewhat) awake to attend classes. It was an uneventful journey.

Eventually we rolled into St. Petersburg in the wee hours of the morning. Very sleepy, I headed back to my apartment to shower, change, and eat some breakfast before turning around again and leaving for school. It was a tiring trip, but worth it in every way.

Moscow is nice, but I still think Saint Petersburg is better.

Monday, December 12, 2011

Finals, grrr....

Hello all!

  We are in the midst of finals so I should first say: I'm alive. Second: I want to be posting more. And third: I shouldn't right now because I need to do work.

Sorry.

BUT!! In a week I will be free and then I will flood this page with posts about Moscow (yes, one more), Thanksgiving (mmmmm...), and the elections (yep, we're talking politics), and January (adventures to come!).


Hang in there and enjoy the Christmas/Holiday season!


Joey