A Midwesterner in the Tsar's Court

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Friday, December 23, 2011

Moscow, the heart of the Bear (Part 4, yes I lied, there is one more post to go)

Ok, blog last log about Moscow so hang on!

Here we go:

Don't let the blue skies fool you...
it was cold.
 I eventually woke up from said restful sleep (see last post) and again prepared for another adventurous (and this time quite cold) day in Moscow. Our first stop was once again the Funky Lime for breakfast. After that, I embarked with the group to one of the oldest (or perhaps the oldest...) monasteries in Moscow. It was off the beaten path a bit, so the area was quiet, set aside from the hustle and bustle around the Kremlin. A cold wind blew, penetrating my coat's protective layer of warmth. But the sight we held before our eyes distracted me from the cold. Monasteries in Russia (as they were throughout Europe) were built as fortresses, to keep out marauders and thieves and the outside world as a whole. White walls surrounded this particular place with a high tower and onion domes piercing the skyline.

Russia, the image you really shouldn't have in
your head. There is so much more :)
We entered through the gate and gathered in the courtyard. Once everyone was together, we headed to meet our guide. The tour was cold, but interesting. I was again beset by the problem of having to go to the bathroom, so unfortunately, I couldn't enjoy it to its fullest. But, we saw the graves of some tsars and their families as well as some other really old Russians. Everyone was visibly quite cold, but we endured the temperatures until we headed inside to see old icons, pictures, and artifacts from the monastery's past. We then headed to another museum within the monastery devoted to iconography and the modern-day Russian Orthodox Church. Again, had I not had to go to the bathroom, I'm sure I would've enjoyed the visit a lot more. But alas, nature called. As the tour ended, we found out that we had a bit of time before we needed to head to our next spot. A friend and I decided to walk around the look at the monastery's grounds once more.
My friend commented that at that moment, we couldn't deny that we weren't in Russia: it was cold and there were onion domes.

Our time at the monastery ended and we headed to our next spot for the day: a cemetery. Now, it may seem a bit sad to head to a cemetery (and in fact it is) but this particular cemetery is special. Why you ask? Because within its walls are entombed many of the icons of the Russian Empire, the Soviet Union, and modern-day Russia. Three famous names from those times who I found there: Anton Chekhov, Yuri Nikulin, and Boris Yeltsin. In any cemetery, I also walk around with a feeling that I've stepped into an area where time doesn't exist. so many people reside in such a place, people from the distant past to the very recent. It seems that all their times are frozen in place, creating this "bubble" from the outside world. And this place especially had that feel. Here were the names of people I've known in books, films, and on TV and here they were, resting eternally.

Yuri Nikulin, my favorite Soviet actor and comedian.

The final resting place of Boris Yeltsin.

Anton Chekhov, my favorite Russian author.































Deserted, very strange...
After the short visit to the cemetery, we headed to lunch. After that, we had free time until dinner. For this moment of freedom, I decided to explore an area called Арбатская (Arbatskaya). It's a pedestrian street lined with souvenir shops, coffee shops, artists, and musicians. It's a fun and exciting place to at least walk around in (and to buy things as well! Though a bit pricey....) I walked around with some friends and had a good time (as well as got stuck temporarily in a bathroom in Starbucks). After we parted, I decided to head off on my own to a market that I'd heard sold Soviet things. I hopped on the metro and headed to where I though it was located. Arriving, I didn't really know what I looking for. I sorta expected (and hoped) that there'd be a big sign pointing me in the right direction. There wasn't. So, I picked a direction and marched forward. I crossed a street and came to a park.

Very unsettling for some reason.
The park's name was the Park of Culture and Rest (a relic of the Soviet Days). It's a place with a few theme parks (small ones) that are popular I'm sure in the summer, but in November...not so much. So it was a quiet place, with a few people walked around, as well as amusement park rides flashing their lights. It was a bit weird....

But, I didn't find any markets, so I turned around and headed back the way I came. This time, I went in the opposite direction and found the market I was looking for. And boy was it a market full of Soviet stuff. There were hat pins, flags, uniforms (full uniforms mind you) and everything in between. It was awesome. I purchased a few things and headed back to dinner (rushing a bit due to my adventure into the park). I made it in time to eat a warm meal and discuss the day's adventures. After eating, we headed back to the hostel to grab our things and go to the train station. The train station was busy and we sat around waiting for the call to board. Everyone was tired, but had enjoyed their time in Moscow.

Arriving back in St. Petersburg.
  We headed out onto the platform and boarded the train. This time, there was a small meal awaiting us (much welcomed even after dinner). We ate and settled in for a good nights rest. Unlike the trip to Moscow, the return trip was a time to rest. All of us had classes in the morning, so we wanted to be (somewhat) awake to attend classes. It was an uneventful journey.

Eventually we rolled into St. Petersburg in the wee hours of the morning. Very sleepy, I headed back to my apartment to shower, change, and eat some breakfast before turning around again and leaving for school. It was a tiring trip, but worth it in every way.

Moscow is nice, but I still think Saint Petersburg is better.

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